DO NOT CALL IT CIDER!
In the cellar of ROOLA, just a few kilometers from Turku, among the islands of the Western archipelago of Finland, we are welcomed by a nice Finnish gentleman, but of French origin, with uncommon curly mustaches. We come to find out that his closest family ancestors were Champagne producers. We are really curious to know something more about BRINKHALL’S, this sparkling wine obtained from apple wine, from a mixture of different varieties of apples, says Jean-Marcel Hearig, wine-maker. What Jean-Marc produces, “without knowing what he is doing” to use his words, is a truly original sparkling wine and also very tasting.
As soon as the bottle is uncorked the first olfactory impact reminds you of a feeling of shyness and once poured into the glass you catch little intense but delicate scent of mature apples.
I have to admit that once this wine comes into the mouth I feel it more pleasant, it reminds me of the wine made of grapes. It is fresh with a good fixed acidity. It reminds me of the Surlié, namely the wine fermented into the bottle which is drank after one or maximum two years. It is obtained with the classic method known as Ancestral, which gave origin to Champagne. The yeast gives it a vanilla note that perhaps is just the common point with the Surlié.
I then uncork a second bottle in the tranquility of my home, and this one gives me clear scents of moss, dry foliage and mushrooms. It reminds me of the forest in the fall season.
Ultimately, after a first timid sip, you feel like drinking again, though the few scents are slowly fading away a few minutes from the pouring. And the void left to the nose is overcome by a rich and pleasant taste in the palate.
It is an unusual product, and courageous like its creator Jean-Marc. You do not have to expect the explosive fragrances of Ancestral Pinot or Chardonnay. To tell the truth is not even right to compare it to them, except for the affinities that they share in the processing method.
A third bottle is uncorked with friends, sit in front of the fireplace’s peace and we have nicely sipped it with an appetizer of crustaceans of the Mediterranean Sea and with some seabasses in the salt. Perfect for being a sparkling wine made of apples. Absolutely interesting the Eeva Range and the Aatami, where a strong residual sugar and fixed acidity, together with the fermentation of apples wine on barriques that originally contained the Port, Cognac, Sauternes, Muscatel, Calvados, give to these interesting dessert or meditation wines a high floral complexity.
Bravo Jean-Marc !!!
Michele De Rossi
Michele De Rossi was born in 1962, he lives in Italy, Padua. He graduated Oenologist at the Oenological School in Conegliano Veneto, Italy. After several significant experiences at some national wineries he has been designing and selling oenological plants for the wine processing industry for 30 years.